Llan Ffestiniog, Gwynedd: The dangerous thrill of these arcane and rarely visited falls make me think of a Mabinogion tale
From Pont yr Afon Gam on the bleak and lonely road across the Migneint, a big four-wheel drive with a grille like bared teeth was close on my tail through the bends. Light was fading. In that wild place the situation felt edgy. The vehicle followed me into the scenic layby that overlooks the upper gorge of the Afon Cynfal.
Its driver watched as I walked over to the fence and peered into the dark ravine, within which thundered the rain-swollen waterfall of Rhaeadr y Cwm. A young man dressed in light-coloured clothes, he came over to talk. “Impressive!” I commented. “Oh yes!” he responded, “I work at the outdoor centre in Rhos y Gwaliau. We take our kids down it sometimes. We’ve put bolts in for abseiling. It’s very atmospheric in there!” I tell him about working 50 years ago at an outdoor centre in Glasbury-on-Wye, leading groups of students through spectacular gorges of the Ystwyth and Rheidol around Devil’s Bridge.
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